Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020 - 26

The modern bagel
Authentic bagels are enjoying a renaissance

MODERN BAGELS RELY ON HEAVY DUTY FLOUR. High-gluten flours
have higher protein content, often running up to 16%. Yet the highgluten flours used for producing bagels at One Mighty Mill run slightly
under that level.
"Our bagels feel lighter because of the protein content we work with,"
said Tony Rosenfeld, co-founder of One Mighty Mill, based in Lynn, Mass.
"They are not quite as dense, but they have all the wonderful chew. I'm a
bagel purist. Our goal is to work with the best whole grain possible."
Rosenfeld loves to talk about wheat and its influence on flavor. One
Mighty Mill bagels are available at Whole Foods Market and several other
instore bakeries in the Northeast.
"For bagels, the signature is really the wheat," he said. "We use highgluten flour. That is pretty incredible stuff."
Bagels are making a comeback in America, sidelined a bit by
the COVID-19 pandemic, but coming on strong where customers
appreciate the flavor and variety options available in a great bagel.
For instance, there are 72 bagel products available for purchase at
the Wegmans Food Markets store in Fairfax, Va. The choices abound:
everything bagels, blueberry, cinnamon raisin, sesame, multigrain,
grains and seeds, bagel thins, and even mini cheese pizza bagels. The
26 - SEPTEMBER 2020

bagel category has matured but is now making a comeback on the
whole grain express.
Mitch Stamm, vice chairman of The Bread Bakers Guild of America
and instructor at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., said
the bagel is not just a barrier between toppings and your fingers, it's the
cornerstone of a sandwich - and many a meal.
"Unlike anyone I've ever met, I'm inclined, if not compelled, to
ponder the hole," Stamm wrote. "Without the hole, it's a meaningless
lump, Without the hole, the bagel would not boil and bake with great
attributes."
And a bagel sandwich begins with a bagel, he continues, "a
sturdy bagel with a dominant, but not cheeky, chew. A bagel with
a glimmering, lustrous sheen. A bagel with an initial burst of malty
sweetness followed by a lasting, clean finish of toasted cereal. A bagel
with texture and flavor so transportive that you feel the midnight baker's
soul. A bagel with attitude. A bagel that bites back."

One Mighty Mill
Jon Olinto and Rosenfeld, co-founders of One Mighty Mill, discovered
that farmers wanted to grow healthy wheat again - without

supermarketperimeter.com

JOHN UNREIN / SOSLAND PUBLISHING CO., ONE MIGHTY MILL, EINSTEIN BROS. BAGELS

BY JOHN UNREIN


http://www.supermarketperimeter.com

Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020

Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020 - 1
Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020 - 1
Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020 - 2
Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020 - 3
Supermarket Perimeter - September 2020 - 4
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