Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 22

Bakery
Artisan breads
BY JOHN UNREIN
CURRENT RESEARCH INDICATES that consumers are emerging from
the COVID pandemic with a restored commitment to clean labels and
simple ingredients, whether they are buying artisan bread at the bakery,
supermarket retailers or online, explains Dave Krishock, Grain Craft
bakery technical support manager.
" One way in which bakers may help meet this commitment would be
to substitute any bleached flours with unbleached flour, " he said. " Bleach
has no impact on the flour's performance other than providing a whiter
crumb in breads, donuts and layer cakes, so it can easily be removed
from your products and your ingredient label. Fans of artisan breads
tend to prefer the aroma, taste and mouth feel of darker, crustier and
moister hearth loaves produced from the more " natural " unbleached
flours available in 25- and 50-pound sacks. "
Krishock adds that it would be great if retailers could performancematch
types/brands of flour to make the profusion of baked goods they
produce each day; however, they face a real conundrum as they often
don't have the financial resources to stock a variety of flours, they are
severely limited by lack of storage space, or their supplier/distributor
minimums are difficult to meet.
These challenges are compounded with the shortage of trained
employees with the bench and hand skills to utilize one flour across a
broad spectrum of products.
" For this reason, I believe retail bakers could consider reviewing
their dough systems and processes to see if a change or adjustment in
their processing might streamline their flour inventory requirements, "
Krishock said. " For example, the strength and reduced pH provided by
a preferment, such as a biga, poolish or pate fermente' may allow a
baker to use a slightly lower protein flour for artisan breads, pizzas and
sweet goods. "
Functional needs
Jeff Yankellow, director of bakery and food services sales at King Arthur
Baking, addresses the profound questions of what the most important
qualities of bread flour are and what should bakers be seeking out
regarding specific functions.
" There is an old-school mentality with flour for bread that the
stronger the better. This is not true, " he said. " Finding the right protein
level and wheat blend for each process is the best approach. "
When inquiring about the best fit, Yankellow recommends telling the
mill what you are trying to make and how, and then let them take these
things into consideration.
" It is best when the miller also has some baking experience that is
relatable, " Yankellow explains. " They should identify what characteristics
they need most for the style of bread they are making. Do they need
something to offset high fat and high sugar? Do they want light and
fluffy or is a more chewy, wild crumb more desirable? Soft crust or
crispy crust? Is there little fermentation or no fermentation? "
For automation, you may prioritize machinability and processing
capabilities. For hand work a lot of that doesn't matter.
Here is an example of how these things might matter differently to
different bakers. For long fermentation, flour that is predominantly
winter wheat is generally recognized as having more tolerance.
For processes with no fermentation time, this is a non-issue. You
can have two flours with the same protein made, one with more spring
wheat and one with more winter wheat. One will work better for long
fermentation than the other. Protein is not the ultimate qualifier.
" There is no one size fits all, " Yankellow said. " There is one size fits most. "
Flour performance
Rob Ostrander, director of technical solutions, Ardent Mills, explains that
while protein content is one measure for flour, " we prefer to emphasize
flour performance in the specific application and process conditions,
which are more important. "
Are you looking to make a cake? Then lower protein or gluten is a
must. Looking to make a pizza crust? Then protein becomes a bigger
conversation.
Typically, retail bakers create their mixes to meet a specific, similar
dough consistency, leaning on how the dough feels at the mixer. As
bakers make their batches, they often make an adjustment in water
level, based on their experience and desired product attributes they're
looking to achieve, Ostrander said.
" There are seemingly endless types of flours, and blends of flours,
that can be custom created to meet a baker's end goal. "
Josh Reasoner, milling technical service manager, ADM, points out
that growing consumer demand for sustainable goods is spurring an
22 - MARCH 2022
supermarketperimeter.com
NATALY STUDIO, NATASHA BREEN - STOCK.ADOBE.COM

Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022

Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - Intro
Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 1
Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 2
Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 3
Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 4
Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 5
Supermarket Perimeter - March 2022 - 6
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